100 Eggs / Ova. Diapherodes Gigantea. Stick Insect. Phasmids. Science Education.

I recommend this species for schools. They are very easy to keep.

One of the largest of the phasmids, and my favourite species. Females are huge, long lived, and a beautiful vibrant apple green above, and blue-green with yellow edges, below. The males are brown, slim and elegant, with pink wings. They are robust calm insects, that get used to being handled, so they make an excellent study species, and good pets.

Please copy the tips below.

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CARE TIPS.  Diapherodes gigantea.

Cages: Diapherodes will eventually need a well ventilated cage about 40cm high, as females can get to 18cm or more. They would prefer a net or mesh cage, to a tank, as it provides more grip, and ventilation. They are happy living together, and with other species.

Food: They will eat a variety of leaves, but newly hatched babies do best on Eucalyptus. I use it all year round, but offer other leaves too, in summer. They love Oak and Beech, and will eat Whitebeam, Rose and Raspberry and Hawthorn. Bramble is good in winter. You can find it even under snow, and it is all old leaves (no toxic young ones). Beware of the thorns, they can injure large critters.

DON'T use florists leaves, as they may be sprayed. DON'T use Privet or Ivy, except for species that specifically eat these. AVOID leaves from beside busy roads. ALWAYS give leaves a good wash in fresh water before using, and change them before they get too dry. A metal lidded jam jar with a hole punched through the lid makes a good water container for stems.

Eggs: Can take months to hatch. (Hatching time can vary enormously) Keep them on slightly moist kitchen paper in a well ventilated container. When eggs start hatching, cover lightly with a little moss. (Climbing through it helps babies get free of the egg shell.) Mist them lightly with water. You want them to stay humid, but not wet enough to go mouldy, so let the paper just dry between mistings. If you see any mould, clean eggs by tipping them onto a clean damp cloth, removing mouldy eggs, and then gently rolling the others around on the cloth. Clean their container well too, before putting them back. I keep my egg tubs on damp sand in a small stacker box.

Hatchlings: Keep babies in small containers. I use various clear plastic tubs, with perforated sides and net lids, and a small lidded jar for the food stems. Small cages make finding tiny critters easier when changing leaves, and also let you keep a close eye on them. Having just a few leaves means lots of nibbled edges, which seems to encourage new babies to start feeding. I feed Diapherodes babies only Eucalyptus for the first few weeks, and then offer them other leaves. Once they start feeding they usually do fine. Use tender leaves, keep them especially fresh, and trim the edges until they get going. The best starter leaves are ones that have been nibbled by older nymphs.

Nymphs and Adults: If your cage has smooth sides provide branches for support as insects get bigger. Keep the cage a bit humid by misting the leaves and substrate. (Diapherodes enjoy a drink, and humidity helps nymphs to moult successfully.) I use kitchen paper on cage floors, but allow it to dry out between mistings to avoid mould. Paper also makes egg gathering easier. Humidity is not as important to adults, but they still like a drink.

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POSTAGE:

I don't post live insects from Thursday to Sunday, to avoid delays in the weekend post. Insects are posted 1st class, and eggs 2nd class. Collection is always welcome.  Sorry I can't ship insects overseas.

Please have a look at my other items.

NB: Ebay wants me to tell you that these can be used as a live feed.